May 27, 2010

Saponaria


Anyone know what kind of bee or fly this is?

Just a quick update. Swarm prevention measures seem to have worked. All 4 queen cells visible through the observation window have been torn down. The girls are keeping the cups around, though. After all, swarm season runs a whole 'nother month.

May 19, 2010

Oh No, Peanuts!

Now that the hive is less crowded, the peanut-looking queen cells are easily seen through the observation window. At least 3 cells that have been elongated and this one looks just about ready to be capped, meaning swarming is imminent. They will swarm anytime after the first cell is capped.

May 16, 2010

Swarm Prevention Measures (cont'd)

"The loss of egg-laying capacity is one of the great stimulators for the colony to swarm. It is important for the beekeeper to take corrective action to prevent a honey-bound colony from swarming." – The Peace Bee Farmer

Top Bar Hive management sometimes requires frequent honey harvests, especially smaller hives like ours. Our colony, however, is so brood-heavy they are using nectar as fast as it's coming in. We're pretty sure they're building up to swarm, and there isn't much honey at all. We pulled a comb that should've been full of honey but not only did it have brood on it, there were 2 queen cups, too. We're up to 9, at the very least. We're probably past the point of preventing a swarm at this point, but we're still hopeful.

For one thing, the shortage of honey could be good. Bees are not supposed to swarm unless there's enough stores for those left behind to get by on for a bit. When a colony swarms, many of the foragers leave (with their stomachs full of honey) and the nurse bees left behind to tend the developing brood aren't able to collect nectar themselves. They won't be of age to forage until their replacements emerge, so they need a stocked pantry. The bees know this, so (in theory) will only swarm if they're leaving behind an adequately provisioned hive and there's a nectar flow on, to ensure survival of both halves. I wonder if they know the Lindens, a favorite food source, are about to bloom.

Can you see the queen cups?

After harvesting honey, advice from the Natural Beekeeping Network is to split the hive, which means ending up with two hives in the Backyard. This is NOT an option. (We could also give some away, but that involves thinking and coordinating, strangers in the Backyard, and I'm not into that right now.)

With the discovery of more queen cups, we're a bit nervous. Even though another blogging beekeeper says, "Adding another box to a strong colony will not stop swarming," we gave them the Warré box to move into. They're supposed to put only honey in the super, but without a queen excluder it's possible that they will expand the broodnest upwards (yikes). Whatever they decide is up to them. All we know is that we have GOT to relieve congestion.

Immediately after supering, the main box looked less congested, so it appears that they are aware of the new space and did move up. If this works, they'll stick around as one huge colony and we'll have a bumper crop of honey easily harvested by simply pulling the super off. If it doesn't work, they'll swarm and we'll be lucky to have enough honey to pull them through another Winter.


May 10, 2010

What Does This Mean?


Highs have only been in the low 70s, and even much colder, so why the beard?
I don't think they're hot, just crowded. There is brood on the 15th comb and 7 queen cells going, so the colony is booming. We put in the last two top bars, so now they're on 22 bars, and are considering supering the hive soon. We're hoping the extra storage space will stop them from going into full swarming mode.

We have a couple of burning questions on how to super a TBH, though. Namely, should we super over the honey area in the back, or over the front so the foragers don't have to travel all the way through a very crowded hive? And do we need a queen excluder, like the one mentioned here?

'The Johnson hive which is used in Uganda is an "improved" fixed-comb hive. It provides for a separation of honey combs from brood combs by using a piece of five-mesh (five holes per 2.54 cm) hardware cloth (called coffee wire in East Africa). The workers can pass through the wire while the queen cannot, thus the comb constructed on the side of the hive opposite the queen contains only honey.'



We're checking with the forums for advice.

May 05, 2010

Want

Beehive Beverage Jar
a Sur la Table exclusive!

And, if you follow my tweets, yes, I did get stung. Once, on the top of my noggin' right where I deserved it.